Just over a mile from Bourton-on-the-Water are the twin villages of Upper and Lower Slaughter. The name comes from old English ‘Slohtre‘, which has nothing to do with killing things and means, simply, ‘Muddy place’.
Today’s villages are far from muddy places. They are the epitome of idyllic, civilised Cotswold charm. Straddling the banks of the River Eye, also known as Slaughter Brook, the two villages have remained utterly unchanged for more than a century with no building work taking place at all since 1906.
Unlike nearby Bourton-on-the-Water there isn’t an obvious list of things to see for the visitor, instead the main draw are the villages themselves.
Lower Slaughter
At the heart of Lower Slaughter is the River Eye, which runs alongside the main street, crossed by small stone footbridges. Many of the cottages date back to the 16th and 17th centuries, built from local limestone with steeply pitched roofs and mullioned windows.
The only listed visitor attraction you will find in The Slaughters is the Old Mill, a restored nineteenth century flour mill located where the River Eye flows by the north-west corner of the village. The mill was last used commercially in 1958 and its tall chimney cuts an imposing figure. The chimney is made of red brick, in sharp contrast to the other buildings in both villages, which are made from the traditional honey-coloured Cotswold stone. The mill features a giant working waterwheel and has a tea room and ice cream parlour for visitors.
The mill was originally part of Lower Slaughter Manor, which was built in 1658 for Sir George Whitmore. Set on the edge of the village this grand 17th-century country house remained in the Whitmore family until the 1960s. Today, it operates as a luxury hotel, offering fine dining and a peaceful retreat in elegant surroundings.
Lower Slaughter is home to the pretty church of St Mary. The church and its impressive spire were re-built in 1867 but some arches between the nave and the south aisle date back to the thirteenth century. St Mary’s retains many medieval elements and features stained glass windows by acclaimed artist Edward Burne-Jones. Francis Edward Witts, who wrote ‘Diary of a Cotswold Parson‘, was rector of the Slaughters from 1808 to 1854.
Upper Slaughter
Less-visited Upper Slaughter lies, as its name suggests, is situated just under a mile upstream from its better-known neighbour.
The cottages around the village square were reconstructed by the famous architect Sir Edward Lutyens in 1906. The River Eye flows between neatly-mown grassy banks and is crossed several times by quaint old bridges and a ford. There are charming stone steps leading into the river which must have been built to enable villagers to more easily get water and a tiny Methodist chapel dating from 1865 also nestles by the brook. It is now used as a pottery.
The church of St Peter’s, in Upper Slaughter, is a historic Norman church with parts dating from the 12th century. Inside, visitors can find an impressive 14th-century chancel arch, intricate stone carvings, and stained-glass windows.
Another notable site is Upper Slaughter Manor, a grand manor house with parts dating back to the 15th century. The house has been carefully preserved and represents the architectural style typical of the Cotswolds, with honey-coloured limestone and mullioned windows.
